Issue 7: The Bag is Back... Again?
HANDBAGS AT DAWN // While some things are better left forgotten, it seems like we can't escape from just about every old purse trying to have its comeback. But, what makes a good bag-vival?
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Jackie, Ava, Carolyn. No, I’m not sharing name ideas for a sisterhood of long-haired sausage dogs I’m planning to adopt. I wish. Neither are they the members of a long-forgotten Italian pop group who released an album about wine, heartbreak and spaghetti in 1992. Those are just three of many archival luxury bags that have been pushed back into the fashion ether over the past few years, all with the hopes of achieving – or re-achieving – their status of timeless icons. As someone who thrives off of fantasising about the past and just how much more fun I would have had if I was born during basically any other period than my own (v delusional, I’d probably be dead), I love the idea of bringing back historic symbols into modern-day. But while some re-issued bags can be just as covetable, if not even more, than when they first came out, others can lose their essence or charm in the process of regurgitation. So, what makes a great bag-vival? And what are some examples you should look out for? Is there anything we can learn from those that didn’t do so well? Join me as I attempt to dive deep into the theory of purse nostalgia and what differentiates the good from the meh from the bad.
The Meh
Let’s start with those that don’t really deserve to be talked about. They aren’t as offensive as attempting to bring back Full House without the Olsen twins, but they also aren’t as exciting as the prospect of Romy and Michele having another reunion in the near future. They are the 4-part Gilmore Girls Netflix special that doesn’t offend anyone but also doesn’t really do… well, anything. In bag form, Rory and Lorelai become The Mulberry Alexa. Dammit, as arguably the biggest living Alexa Chung fan, this hurts to write.
Alexa Chung was my first Internet love. She taught me the importance of personality in the fashion industry. She showed me that you can be everything and nothing and still feel great about it. She taught me how you can be cool and make a book that’s just about you being cool. My legs still cut-off whenever I cycle, walk or dance past her, and it’s because she represents a moment in my life when everything seemed so much simpler. Call it indie sleaze, but only if you must. I call it the Alexa-Chung-dating-messy-band-boys-while-wearing-Chanel era. I mean, she even had a bag named after her in 2010, when Mulberry decided to jump on the Alexa train during her peak celebrity. I clearly remember this bag being a cross-cultural object of desire in a way that could be somewhat compared to today’s global popularity of the Telfar shopper. The Alexa was aspirational yet vaguely reachable at its original £695 price-point back in 2010. But as time went by, the bag’s popularity declined, perhaps mirroring the shift in the audience of its namesake, and Mulberry halted this model’s production.
That is, until last summer when they relaunched a mini capsule of three different models – two of them being freshly designed by Chung, and the third one being The Alexa in its OG form. While I’m not privy to the numbers that would explain whether this collab revival went well or not in terms of sales, I can say that something felt a bit off about this launch. And that’s talking as an Alexa fan. Firstly, too much focus was put on the new Chung-designed shapes (Big Guy and Little Guy, as seen in the images below), which didn’t really feel wildly creative or different from Mulberry’s mainline pieces. Secondly, The Alexa’s price went up almost double, therefore completely missing the sweet spot this bag initially hit across multiple generations. Another point that could be said about this launch refers to avoiding a more genuine throwback sensibility towards Alexa’s golden age, and therefore missing an opportunity to explore the meaning of the model/host/fashion icon and her legacy in a more complete way. The design itself was barely touched, which is something I very much appreciated. But all other elements considered, it felt like the brand didn’t believe in the product anymore, instead revisiting it because someone told them it would be a good thing to do.
The Good
Let’s say this one together: Gucci and Alessandro Michele are very skilled at bringing back nostalgia in a way that feels new, modern and exciting. I know that openly celebrating this brand makes me sound like a 59-year-old cheugy who’s trying to be down with the kids, but even my sarcy ass can’t deny the power of the Gooch. Take the Gucci Jackie 1961 revival for example. Named after Mrs Kennedy Onassis, the bag was initially designed back in the 1950s, and popularised by the First Lady who used to tote around a variety of different colourways with her. Its oval shape was a softer, hobo-esque evolution from the structured bags of the previous decade. It was formal yet casual, while its midi size offered a liberating feeling of being able to fit absolutely anything you might need.
The bag never really went all the way away as both Tom Ford and Frida Giannini brought back their own versions on the Gucci catwalks, admittedly in more angular, sharper forms. But when Alessandro Michele brought the Jackie back for autumn/winter 2020, it was very much an a-ha moment in multiple ways. Though the idea of reviving bags was just hitting its stride thanks to the wide-spread popularity of the Dior Saddle, every purist instantly re-connected with Michele’s take on the iconic purse due to the new model reminiscing on the recognisable codes of the original. It felt genuine and unexpected – there wasn’t necessarily a ‘good reason’ to do it, beyond Michele’s distinct taste. There was also the element of not being able to find many of the pre-Tom Ford models in the resale market, which made this fresh one attractive for a whole new generation of buyers, unlike say The Alexa which was very much still alive and kicking on platforms like eBay or Vestiaire.
My mouth drooled then, and it still does whenever I see someone with a Gucci Jackie 1961, as it truly encapsulates all elements of a good revival. In Broadway terms, Alessandro Michele is like Barry and Fran Weissler, a couple skilled in breathing new life into old ideas.
An honourable mention for another great Gucci comeback goes to the the Diana, the brand’s bamboo-handle box tote named after the late Lady Di who carried it with her legendary sportswear looks with a car key in her mouth. The shape was almost untouched, only elevated with the presence of eclectic colourways and a removable strap belt details. *chef’s kiss*
The Bad
Controversial-yet-brave alert: I don’t think that the Balenciaga City bag has had the comeback it deserves yet. It’s a bag that went beyond defining an era by putting a timestamp on every celebrity pap shot it was part of. Perhaps the pinnacle of Nicolas Ghèsquiere’s 15-year-old adventurous tenure as Balenciaga’s creative director, the City bag (which is part of the wider Motorcycle bag family that launched in 2021) was his earliest, and one of few truly global commercial successes. While his clothes rarely allowed for a diverse range of people to even consider wearing them, his bags became universal as soon as they were seen, splashed across tabloids around the world. Starting with Kate Moss and capturing every starlet including Lindsay Lohan, Nicky Hilton and Nicole Richie, this bag steadily built its reputation in becoming the hottest fashion prostitute of the noughties. In a 2019 story, Vogue’s Liana Satenstein called it ‘the toughest It bag in history’ which continues to ring true. On a personal note, it’s a bag I’ve wanted for a long time and have only recently splurged on. As in, I’m still waiting for it to arrive in post. So, why is it on this list?
Well, as they say in the world of cinema – you don’t mess around with a classic. You just wouldn’t go and film a new set of Golden Girls, would you? Out of reasons I could only allocate to Demna Gvasalia’s own creative vanity, Balenciaga brought back elements of the Motorcycle line in a range of forms, including a fun banana shape, under a new, joint name of Le Cagole. And while the City bag was never directly revived, it was heavily present in one of the designs called Neo Cagole. What’s annoying here is that Gvasalia is simultaneously evidently ripping off the archive without giving the credit where credit is due. If the idea was to completely recontextualise the design, that would be fine. But you can’t serve me a gammon steak and call it a beef steak. And what’s worse, the new not-City-but-City bag feels overly busy and lacks that timeless appeal of the original. Thankfully, there are plenty of Ghèsquiere’s City bags out there, ready to be purchased and re-loved. And I guess we always have that stupid boot bag from the latest collection coming out next season. Maybe that will be the bag’s true resurrection?
The Hopes for the Future
Honestly, if we’re going to bold and brazen with the world of revivals, I’m expecting to see the final evolution of the noughties Brit classic that is the corset bag. It’s possibly the chicest piece of luggage that permanently changed the direction of contemporary bag design. Just sayin’. Seen in charity shops around the British Isle tagged with the price of just a few quid, this legacy piece is due its moment in the luxury sun and I hope someone can make it happen ASAP. Apparently, Zara tried to do it a few years ago but it was – unsurprisingly – a flop. Perhaps this could be the chance for Demna to go back to my good books? Shhh, I heard he reads Handbags at Dawn… xxx
PS. I started doing TikToks. LOL. While I still try to figure things out, you can go follow and laugh at my attempts over at tiktok.com/@handbagsatdawn.
*PEEK OF THE WEEK*
Who’s currently taking over the world as the new hottest fashion editor in the biz with a signature bob and an unmistakable amount of sass? It’s Hannah Tindle (@hannahrosetindle), a writer with an impeccable Twitter feed and the Fashion Features Director of the recently relaunched ES Magazine with a dream wardrobe I’d deffo raid if I was her size, Bling Ring-style. Side note, I also get to work with Hannah through one of my current freelance projects, and even though we haven’t met IRL yet, I am completely mesmerised by her sense of humour as well as her hot pink Balenciaga City bag (!!). Truth be told, she was one of the two people who inspired me to finally get one of my own. As she explained, Hannah got hers in a perfect shade of fuchsia via the RealReal last year, reinstating my point on the beauty of the OG. So, I couldn’t help but ask to take a look of what’s inside it.
What does the inside of your bag say about you?
Hannah: “My bag […] usually contains the following essentials: a Juul or pack of cigarettes (oops); my Comme [des Garçons] purse that could really do with an update as it’s getting a bit ratty around the edges; NARS powder and concealer; a red Chanel liquid lipstick and Chanel highlighter – plus a very fake Chanel hair clip for when I need to get my hair out of my face. I also tend to carry around a spare pair of statement earrings for day-to-night emergencies, and a portable charger as I am often glued to my phone. What does this say about my personality? I like Chanel, authentic or otherwise, and I should really stop smoking and using social media so much. Although realistically, that isn’t going to happen any time soon.”
